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Friday, 21 October 2011

Beautiful lomography photos in malaysia - by en shahdi


Via youtube. Lomography Malaysia Photos by enshahdi

Other Camera Lomo


I can’t afford/don’t want a LOMO LC-A. Are there similarly cool cameras out there?
There are a lot of cameras out there, ranging from expensive posh point-and shoot cameras down to $5 plastic giveaway cameras. Whichever camera allows you to express yourself is all you need. Some of the posters on http://www.lomo.org have been spotted with these cameras:
Lomo SMENA-8M, SMENA-35
Cosina CX-1 or
Olympus XA/XA2/XA4
Jazz 101(daytime only)
Jazz Jelly
Manual SLRs
Polaroid SX-70
LOMO supersampler, cybersampler, LOMO-9
Canonet
Kiev 35/Minox 35
Fed rangefinders
Holga 120/120SF plastic cameras

What is cross processing?

Developing color print film in slide chemicals or slide film in color print chemicals is called “Cross Processing”. Cross processing can yield vivid, surreal colors to your prints, but it can be difficult to find photo labs willing to process it for you.

About Lomo Film


Film is film is film. Any 35mm 12, 24, or 36 exposure roll color print, negative, or specialty film 400 speed or 1600 speed (LCA+ or LCA+ RL) or slower should work.
Ok, then, what kind of film?
I’ve had great luck with shooting the cheapest film I could find, and shooting a lot of it. By shooting cheap film, you take more pictures, and capture moments you might not capture if you were watching your film. I’ve shot professional-grade film, and gotten great pictures, too. To each his/her own – there is no one “right” film.
What speed film should I use?
“Slow” films (films rated ASA 64 or 100) require more light to expose a picture, but have brighter colors and the pictures have less grain. “Fast” films (films rated ASA 400) require less light, but the colors aren’t as bright and the prints appear more grainy than with slow films. Slow films usually require wider apertures
and longer shutter speeds, which can result in blurrier shots. Sometimes, with a LOMO LC-A, that’s what you want. 200 speed film is a compromise between the two speeds, twice as sensitive as ASA 100 film and half as sensitive as ASA 400 film.
(gregg)
“In general lower ISO’s have better color saturation — pros even go to ISO 50… slides usually have better colors than print film but who wants slides for goofing around shots?”
What is “Lucky” film?
Lucky film is an inexpensive Chinese film brand. Lucky emulsions tend to be a little off-color, but can result in vivid colors.

How Do I use a flash with my lomo lc-a?


“Traditional” flash photography with a Lomo requires that you manually set the aperture on the camera using the slider on the right-hand side of the lens. This sets the shutter speed to 1/60th second, and fixes the aperture to the setting you specify – effectively disabling all of the cool auto-exposure stuff the LOMO
LC-A does.
The Lomographic Society sells two accessory flashes. The MiniFlash is a basic manual flash, and the ColorSplash is a wild-looking flash unit with colored “gels” you can rotate in front of the flash tube to make interesting color effects.
There’s no need to limit yourself to Lomographic Society flashes, if you want to use other flashes. There are two types of third- party accessory flash units available – manual and automatic. With a manual flash, it should come with a power rating known as a “guide number”, listed in feet or meters. If you know the guide
number, divide the guide number by the distance to subject. The result is the aperture to use – set the aperture lever on the side of the lens to the proper aperture. Most flashes have a chart on the back showing the relation of film speed, distance, and aperture.
Auto flashes have a sensor on the front of the flash. Auto flashes normally have one or two aperture/power ranges – set the camera to the aperture corresponding to the power setting you choose, and the flash will vary the brightness to properly expose everything within the flash range.
You can also experiment with a flash in auto mode. Lomography is all about experimenting and creating new results.
Auto Mode w/Flash (Davey) “…I put my hand in front of the flash to soften it. I really like that method for shooting people at night. If executed properly, you can get detail of the subject, but lots of ghosts floating around them.”
Off-camera flash (Poindexter)
Try leaving your LOMO LC-A on the auto setting and take a picture with a subject in flash range. Note how long it takes for the second click. Shoot again, but point your flash at the subject before the second click and fire the flash using the test button – off the camera. You should get a weird streaky LOMO-like background and a sharp foreground subject.

What shutter speed the lc-a use?


On the LC-A (with the aperture setting set to A) and the LC-A+, the shutter speed varies between 1/500th second and 2 minutes. The wonderful exposure system on the LC-A will keep the shutter open as long as it takes.
The LC-A has another setting on the front on the left side looking at the camera. When set to A, the shutter behaves as above. When set to 2.8/5.6/8/11/16, the shutter speed is locked at 1/60th second for flash photography.

How do i focus my lc-a?


This is a chart showing the the closes and furthest areas of focus at each aperture. If you use the manual settings on your lc-a it could be quite helpful to know these distances.
f/2.8:
80cm = 75cm to 84cm
1.5m = 1.34m to 1.70m
3m = 2.40m to 3.95m
∞m = 12m+
f/4:
80cm = 73cm to 87cm
1.5m = 1.30m to 1.80m
3m = 2.3m to 4.60m
∞m = 9m+
f/5.6:
80cm = 71cm to 92cm
1.5m = 1.21m to 2m
3m = 2.1m to 5.8m
∞m = 6.5m +
f/8:
80cm = 67cm to 1m
1.5m = 1.11m to 2.28m
3m = 1.76m to 9.80m
∞m = 4.70m+
f/11:
80cm = 64cm to 1.0m
1.5m = 1.01m to 2.85m
3m = 1.55m to 185m
∞m = 3.5m+
f/16:
80cm = 58cm to 1.25m
1.5m = 89cm to 4.80m
3m = 1.25m to infinity
∞m = 2.60m+
You can work out the depth of field at each aperture and distance by taking the small number from the big number, so 80cm at f/4 the depth of field is 14cms.